Deglaciation in the Alps

Deglaciation in the Alps

Glacier de Pré de Bar

Deglaciation in the Alps. We live in a time of great change regarding world climate. The retreat of the world’s ice caps and glaciers continues, exposing new surfaces once covered beneath vast frozen rivers of ice. With the unearthing of these rocky surfaces, comprising of glacially scoured bedrock, boulders and gravels, comes an opportunity for new life to colonise these virgin habitats.

With only a meagre source of minerals and nutrients, pioneer lichens and mosses are able to establish and grow in the exposed and barren landscape with their spores being blown in by the wind. Shortly after specialist plants take root and begin the establishment of the early pioneering community of plants. In such extreme conditions growth is slow, but conditions steadily improve and pockets of soil develop as dead plant materials are broken down, decompose and become available for new plants to utilise the nutrients.

glaciation

Alpine willowherb

This transformation continues over time with new additions to the plant community. With each addition the conditions in the soil develop and the habitat gradually changes. Each alteration to the environment changes the conditions enough to make it more favourable for different species that take advantage of this new opportunity and the diversity of species rises. Over time this process of development stabilises and the sequence of plant communities comes to rest with characteristic plants that define the ecosystem.

What has been described above is the process known as ‘primary succession’. This is a large-scale pattern and follows the changes in plant communities and the development of soil which occur over time. The final plant community being recognised as the typical vegetation of the area which is largely defined by climate. We notice this as we observe the changes from the milder valleys to the tops of the higher mountains where distinct bands of vegetation occur. Each of these bands of vegetation are characteristic of the altitudinal zones and reflect the natural vegetation of that climate.

Deglaciation in the Alps

Lichen colonisers

Deglaciation in the Alps is linked with succession. Succession is tightly bound to the underlying substrate and the early pioneer species vary according to the nature of this. The substrate and terrain can be wet or dry, exposed or sheltered and the habitat may be solid rock, boulders, gravels or finely ground clay. The plants most suited to the specific conditions of that habitat become established first and begin the process. Interestingly, regardless of the nature of the initial habitat, the final, stable ‘climax’ community will always be the same for that climate and location.

In the Alps there are many examples where primary succession can be seen. The first to colonise, following mosses and lichens, are a community dominated by plants such as Alpine Willowherb, Alpine Toadflax and Yellow Mountain Saxifrage. These plants dominate large areas of the glacial foreland where there are glacial outwash gravels. Other pioneer communities are also observed in wetter areas where Cottongrass, various sedges and ferns can be found. Rocky and bouldery habitats are often colonised by Houseleeks and Adenostyles.

glaciation

Mountain sorrel

Mountain Sorrel is also an early pioneer species but is a short-lived plant and soon Green Alder and Willow out-compete this and the other small, slow growing pioneer plants. Over time the Green Alder scrub is taken over as the conditions improve and allows the dwarf shrub community to establish, dominated by Alpenrose, Bilberry and Juniper. Eventually the transformation of the ecosystem allows for the formation of the Larch-Arolla Pine forest, climax community.

The importance of soil development is often overlooked but there are many significant changes that occur as the skeletal, mineral soils eventually develop into an organised, deep and organic-rich cover with many distinct layers. Over time nitrogen is added to the soil through the action of nitrogen-fixing plants such as Mountain Avens and Green Alder.

glaciation

Glacial moraine

Mycorrhizal fungi, associated with the roots of certain plants such as Spring Heath and grasses, help to accelerate the development of the soil by accessing nutrients and making them available to the plants in exchange for sugars produced by the plants. The organic matter eventually increases and the soil begins to form a continuous ground cover and bacteria and tiny organisms continue to transform leaf litter into soil. Some processes in the soil can take over a thousand years to fully form which neatly illustrates the significance of time in the process of ecological succession.

The Alps a natural companionYou can expand on Deglaciation in the Alps by reading my book The Alps a natural companion

Why not join me on a Swiss alpine flower course? Check my courses on EventBrite

Alpine habitats

This article looks at the dynamic alpine environment and explores the range of broad alpine habitats and ecosystems created in a rapidly changing and unstable environment.

As you look towards the high alpine summits, beyond the dark green coniferous forests, you’ll see a mosaic of grassland, rock, scree and late winter snow patches as summer finally approaches. Some areas have been exposed to the intense alpine climate for a few months now but equally others remain covered under blankets of rapidly melting snow. Each of these dynamic alpine habitats forms their own unique ecosystem where communities of plants and animals interact with the physical environment. Species that occur in these difference ecosystems have adapted to occupy very different niches. They’re become adapted through the process of evolution and true specialists, tolerant of the conditions that control or eliminate competition.

Alpine habitats

Spring crocus in alpine meadow

Their novel adaptations have allowed them to extract whatever meagre nutrients, raw materials and water they can whilst gaining all the support and anchorage they need to establish, grow and survive. They also need to reproduce successfully and resist attach from pests and disease whilst the environment around them is in a state of constant change and unpredictable physical disintegration. The resilience of alpine flowers is incredible; their ability to absorb change and therefore remain and retain their character only adds to their fascination.

It is worthy to note here that geology plays a significant role as there is variation in the durability of different rock types and structures found within them (bedding, cleavage, jointing and folding). These control the development of a landscape aided by the erosive forces of water, wind and ice. The subsequent weathering releases minerals by both physical and chemical disintegration. There are many minerals in rocks but none with a more pronounced effect on vegetation than calcium. Many plants can only grow on calcium rich soils whereas others can only live on soils without calcium. These calcium-poor soils tend to be acidic and low in nutrients and the range of species within the community is far less.

Here we take a look at the broader alpine habitats and their general characteristics along with several key species that are commonly found amongst them.

Alpine habitats

Alpine toadflax

Scree

Created by the repeated freezing and thawing of water which collects in cracks in the rock this habitat is characterised by large angular fragments at the base of the rock cliff where the material has originated. This unstable environment attracts the hardiest of alpine pioneer species. They have to cope with physical damage and being covered by rock debris. Their strength depends on change and uncertainty and this makes up for being poor competitors. Characteristics of scree plants are a wide root system, spreading shoots (making new plants) and underground storage organ. They tend to have a short life and reproduce by either fragmentation (a shoot that is rooted becomes detached from the parent plant) or sending new shoots up from deep taproots. Typical examples of plants reproducing by fragmentation are seen in bellflowers and houseleeks and those from taproots are from the cabbage and daisy families.

Alpine habitats

Vandelli’s rock-jasmine

Rock crevices and cliff

This habitat is created by the widening of cracks and fissures through surface weathering. They are relatively stable compared with scree and species are less resilient to change preferring more favourable conditions. Water and organic matter accumulate in the crevices providing a meagre source of nutrition. Deep roots and woody stems are common features in plants which inhabit these features and provide anchorage and support from exposure to the harsh element. The plants are, however, still poor competitors and require space to grow but once established they can live for a long time. Some crevices develop lush hanging gardens where a seepage of water and soil adds stability where a greater variety of plants can flourish. A wide variety of plant species survive in rock crevices ranging from the short-lived plants in the cabbage and daisy families to the long-lived cushion plants such as rock-jasmines, houseleeks and saxifrages. Their tiny leaf rosettes packed tightly and perfectly formed against the cliff giving them essential shelter from the harsh winds.

Alpine habitats

Alpine meadow

Alpine grasslands

These alpine habitats forms a natural alpine belt which lies above the natural treeline. The soils here are well developed and inhabited by long-lived species. The soils have accumulated organic matter over time and provide a medium for which plants, good at competing for resources and space, is of paramount importance. The relative stability of this habitat allows for a fairly constant vegetation but changes can occur following disturbance or prolonged snow cover. There are huge variations in alpine grasslands depending on climate, altitude and underlying geology and these determine the mineral content and nature of the soil. This can range from shallow, skeletal soils at high altitudes to deep, nutrient rich and damp soils in areas closer to the treeline. Acidic soils develop on granite, gneiss and sandstone which weather forming soils that are rich in silica and generally low in nutrients. These largely favour heathers (such as trailing azalea), fescue and matt grasses. On calcium-rich rocks cushion sedge grasslands form with associated plants such as mountain avens, globularia, alpine aster and mountain sainfoin.

Alpine habitats

Tall herb communities

Tall herb communities

These develop on soils rich in nitrogen and are associated with alpine meadows and in the vicinity of alpine huts, essentially anywhere where nutrients accumulate. They occur below or around the natural treeline and are mostly dependent on the management of grazing animals. Tall herbs also occur naturally in unmanaged areas which experience long periods of snow cover. They also occur in sheltered gullies and hollows and can form under forests and bushes with damp, nutrient-rich soils. Typical species in this luxurious environment are adenostyles and blue sow thistle, monk’s rhubarb and nettle.

Alpine habitats

Starry saxifrage

Bogs and wet flushes

There are a variety of wet and damp habitats ranging from blanket bogs and mires to spring-fed flushes and seepage channels. Their soils are either intermittently or permanently wet and are inhabited by specialist plant communities. Wet soils are deficient of oxygen and build up thick peaty layers as the decomposition of dead plant matter is vastly reduced. Bogs lie in flat areas and have deep peaty soils which are raised above the water table and retain water like sponges. These permanently wet habitats are covered with a vivid array of brightly coloured mosses along with cotton grass, rushes and sedges. Wet flushes are fed by springs or meltwater which is highly charged with dissolved salts and bases. Deeply swollen carpets of mosses are interspersed with starry and yellow mountain saxifrage, sedges and marsh marigold. Carnivorous plants also favour these habitats, as nutrients are unavailable and locked up in the soil. These plants have adapted to gain nutrition from consuming insects which are attracted by specialist leaves or flowers designed to trap and digest them. Butterworts and sundews are examples of such insectivorous plants.

The Alps a natural companionYou can expand on alpine habitats by reading my book The Alps a natural companion

Why not join me on a Swiss alpine flower course? Check my courses on EventBrite

An alpine flowers walk

Alpine flowers

Jungfrau

An alpine flowers walk in late June through the Lauterbrunnen valley offers a spectacular journey through a deeply incised glaciated valley with towering ice-capped summits above. With richly carpeted alpine meadows in between, awash with fresh snowmelt and awakening flowers, the scene was set for an overwhelming hut-to-hut excursion.

I chose to go to the Lauterbrunnen after meeting a friend and hearing stories of mountaineering and adventure combined with an overwhelming passion for the natural history. It sounded a perfect location to indulge oneself in nature and immerse in a world free from the shackles of work. There are several mountain huts and bivouacs in the area and pouring over maps I found an interesting hut-to-hut walk. Late snows having just cleared the huts were finally opened for the season and were peaceful and quiet.

An alpine flowers walk

Lauterbrunnen valley

An alpine flowers walk in the Lauretbrunnen valley is a wonderful opportunity. Set in the heart of the Swiss Bernese Oberland it is easily reached by road and rail yet you can very quickly feel like it’s a long way from civilisation. Paths lead up through the coniferous forests of Norway spruce and Silver fir which fringe the valley floor. The sense of being surrounded by nature is immediate and the noise of town and road are left behind. Columbine, Aconite-leaved buttercup and Yellow wood violet are among the many plants which cover the dark and damp woodland floor, specialists in living in poor light conditions. Bird’s nest orchid are dotted around wholly reliant upon fungi in the soil for their food and nutrition, are well adapted here, their faint, musty smell attracting delicate flies to aid pollination.

An alpine flowers walk

Dwarf snowbells

It’s not long until we reach the upper limit where trees lose their vigor and allow the smaller alpine vegetation to take over. The well-established treeline signifies a change of climate. The trees ability to grow and reproduce no longer outweighs its ability to repair and survive in the harsher environment. Thin skeletal soils offer a meagre nutrition and house the sprawling roots of the low-lying vegetation. Despite this the beguiling diversity of grasses and flowers begin to come into their own. Free from the shade of the tall canopy trees many flowers possess an ability to track the suns path as it traverses the sky, others have flower shapes that help to concentrate and harness this energy into developing their seeds. Whatever the mechanisms adopted these hardy plants seem to thrive in the extreme yet fleeting alpine summer.

Alpine flowers

Spring Pasqueflowers

Alpine flowers

Lady’s slipper orchid

Coming down from the higher reaches of the valley, in the shadow of the impressive north face of the Breithorn, we head north towards Stechelberg leaving the meadows of Pasque-flowers, Gentians and Mountain avens and travel through small, active farm dwellings whose occupants are busying themselves with the chores of the day. We come finally through the improved pastures of tall herb grasslands with the nodding heads of Bellflower, Yellow rattle and forget-me-not. Shortly beyond this we cross the now much larger river and follow a gravel road towards habitation where, with Swiss precision, the bus arrives to take us to our final destination.

The Alps a natural companionYou can expand on an alpine flowers walk by reading my book The Alps a natural companion

Why not join me on a Swiss alpine flower course? Check my courses on EventBrite

Cuillin ridge

Cuillin ridge

The Cuillin ridge

Back in April 2015 I planned a mountaineering trip up to Scotland with my friend Tim Harrop to climb the Cuillin ridge. Our intention was to head over to the Isle of Skye and attempt a traverse of the Black Cuillin mountains. The weather usually plays a huge part in planning any such trip and the mountains are often cloaked in cloud and rain. The forecast was spectacular and this fuelled our excitement about the adventure. The Black Cuillin range is the most complex and technical mountain environment in the British Isles, with its jagged rocky ridges dropping straight into the beautiful Hebridean Sea providing the setting for a unique mountain experience.

Cuillin ridge

The Dubh slabs

The Black Cuillin contain 12 of Scotland’s 283 Munros (a mountain with a summit height of more than 3,000 ft) and these are acknowledged as the hardest to attain and linking them is even tougher, with many narrow ridges to scramble and concentration required on every step. A traverse of the ridge is no mean feat. There are 12km of continuous scrambling mostly along a narrow crest with concentration required on every step. This takes approximately 9-15 hours to complete in ideal weather conditions and that’s not including the long approach and descent adding another 6 hours.

With all this in mind we decided on a ‘warm up’ mountaineering day taking in Blaven (929m) and traversing the impressive summit of Clach Glas in the Black Cuillins but which lies away from the main ridge. This traverse is a superb outing combining exposed scrambling and easy rock climbs along a complicated ridge. We lunched on the Putting green after descending The Imposter (which is climbed grade moderate). One final easy grade rock climb saw us reach the broad ridge of Blaven.

Cuillin traverse

The Inaccessible Pinnacle

The time came for us to plan how we would tackle the main Cuillin ridge. Tim had been to the area before and said an ascent via the Dubh slabs after a boat ride across Loch Scavaig from Elgol is an amazing approach which we eagerly pursued. We left the van at Sligachan hotel and hitched around the following morning making for easier logistics for the traverse. After the rib ride across the Loch we ascended the Dubh slabs, a 35 degree rock slab climbing from sea level to 700m. This was an impressive ascent and the rock was positive and grippy.

Cuillin traverse

Boat ride across Loch Scavaig

After our first abseil off the summit of Sgurr dubh mor we were on the main ridge.

We made a bivvy after climbing the TD gap which Tim led (he’d packed his climbing shoes purposefully). On awaking the following morning the weather had come in and cloud shrouded the summits obscuring our view and making our progress slower as route finding is notoriously tricky. The ridge continued and we scrambled, climbed and abseiled our way northwards before leaving the ridge as dark fell at Bruach na frithe.

Cuillin ridge

One of many abseils

Wildflower playing cards Learn more about our wildflowers and natural world with a beautifully crafted pack of playing cards. This series of playing cards covers wildflowers, trees of Europe and alpine flowers. There are also wildflower Top trump cards to buy too. Top Trumps are the UK’s best selling card game! Visit our shop to buy

Swiss alpine flowers

alpine flowers of the swiss alpsAlpine flowers of the Swiss Alps. This one-day course will give you confidence to identify Swiss alpine flowers. It will demystify the jargon behind flower identification books and help you become a more informed leader and also to prepare you for an IML assessment if you’re not yet qualified. The course will also look at the broader environment to develop your understanding of alpine geology, tectonic activity and land use. The course will be run in a non-residential capacity.

The field site has been selected due to the wonderful limestone floral diversity. It is an easily accessible site with good altitudinal and habitat diversity. The pace of the course is intentionally leisurely as clients regularly take photos and spend time making notes along the way.

Arrive at 9am to register. We will meet at Boulangerie Charlet, Place de la Barboleuse 10, 1882 Gryon and car-share to Solalex (4km). The course finishes about 5pm.

The course will be led in the outdoors – please bring pen and paper, camera, appropriate clothing and footwear and a packed lunch and liquids for a mountain day. There is a buvette at Solalex and also at Anxeinde where refreshments can also be bought.

The Alps a natural companionThe course will be run by Jim Langley. Check my courses on EventBrite

You can expand on this workshop by reading my book The Alps a natural companion

The Walker’s Guide to Outdoor Clues and Signs

In the spring of 2014 I had the pleasure of taking Tristan Gooley on a walk looking for outdoor clues and signs. We walked around Cwm Idwal National Nature Reserve in Snowdonia National Park. The walk features as a chapter in his book on Natural Navigation. The walk involved looking at wild flowers and geology and how they can be used to aid navigation and to help you know what is going on in the natural world. Plants respond to the climate and weather patterns and can indicate water saturation in the soil. They also help understand the geology of the area and what type of habitat you are in.

The ultimate guide to what the land, sun, moon, stars, trees, plants, animals, sky and clouds can reveal – when you know what to look for. This top ten bestseller is the result of Tristan Gooley’s two decades of pioneering outdoors experience and six years of instructing, researching and writing. As well as the most comprehensive guide to natural navigation for walkers ever compiled, it also contains clues for weather forecasting, tracking, city walks, coast walks, night walks and dozens of other areas.

outdoor clues and signs

With Tristan Gooley in Cwm Idwal

outdoor clues and signs

Tristan Gooley in Cwm Idwal

Outdoor Signs and Clues

The Walker’s Guide to Outdoor Signs and Clues

Why not join me on a course. Book via Eventbrite or email me for enquiries

Visit our online shop

Wildflower playing cardsLearn more about our wildflowers and natural world with a beautifully crafted pack of playing cards. This series of playing cards covers wildflowers, trees of Europe and alpine flowers. There are also wildflower Top trump cards to buy too. Top Trumps are the UK’s best selling card game! Visit our shop to buy

Hawthorn brandy

Hawthorn brandy

Hawthorn brandy will be ready for Xmas

Brandy seems to have been the preferred medium for tincturing hawthorn. The method of production is similar to any other tinctures. If you would like to produce a medicinal quality tincture go to Michael Moore’s website where there is a list of alcohol quantities and strengths for each kind of herb.

How to make Hawthorn brandy

375ml brandy

225g haws

125g sugar

  • Clean the haws and dry them
  • Add haws and sugar to a sterilised jar
  • Pour in the brandy and shake vigorously
  • Keep warm and shake daily for 1 week
  • Shake weekly for 2 months
  • Decant liquid into sterilised bottles and enjoy

Warning

A few words of warning and rules:

  • Some plants and fungi are poisonous, so if you are not 100% certain that your identification is correct – DO NOT EAT IT.
  • Avoid foraging where agricultural sprays or vehicle pollution may have contaminated produce.
  • Always stay on Rights of Way unless you have the permission from the landowner to leave them.
  • Picking nuts, berries, leaves etc. is permitted on Rights of Way, but the uprooting of any wild plants is illegal without the landowner’s permission.

Why not join me on a course. Book via Eventbrite or email me for enquiries

Visit our online shop

Wildflower playing cardsLearn more about our wildflowers and natural world with a beautifully crafted pack of playing cards. This series of playing cards covers wildflowers, trees of Europe and alpine flowers. There are also wildflower Top trump cards to buy too. Top Trumps are the UK’s best selling card game! Visit our shop to buy

Hawthorn ketchup

Hawthorn ketchup

Hawthorn ketchup recipe

Hawthorn Berry Benefits

Used to promote the health of the circulatory system, treat angina, high blood pressure, congestive heart failure and cardiac arrhythmia and has been found to strengthen the heart. Hawthorn is widely regarded in Europe as a safe and effective treatment for the early stages of heart disease and has been used for a number of ailments including angina, myocarditis, arteriosclerosis, nervous conditions like insomnia, and diarrhea. It has also been indicated for strengthening blood vessels, vascular insufficiency and blood clots, restoring the heart muscle wall, lowering cholesterol and to aid digestion.

How to make Hawthorn ketchup

1Kg Haws
600ml Vinegar
600ml Water
340g Brown sugar
Salt & pepper
Cloves & Star anise

 

  • Prepare & clean the haws
  • Boil until soft in water and vinegar (about 30 mins)
  • Sieve (quite hard work!)
  • Re-boil for 10 mins with spice & seasoning
  • Pour into sterilised containers!

Warning

A few words of warning and rules:

  • Some plants and fungi are poisonous, so if you are not 100% certain that your identification is correct – DO NOT EAT IT.
  • Avoid foraging where agricultural sprays or vehicle pollution may have contaminated produce.
  • Always stay on Rights of Way unless you have the permission from the landowner to leave them.
  • Picking nuts, berries, leaves etc. is permitted on Rights of Way, but the uprooting of any wild plants is illegal without the landowner’s permission.

Why not join me on a course. Book via Eventbrite or email me for enquiries

Visit our online shop

Wildflower playing cardsLearn more about our wildflowers and natural world with a beautifully crafted pack of playing cards. This series of playing cards covers wildflowers, trees of Europe and alpine flowers. There are also wildflower Top trump cards to buy too. Top Trumps are the UK’s best selling card game! Visit our shop to buy

Hawthorn fruit leather

image

Hawthorn fruit leather

Hawthorn is a traditional and ancient British tree. It’s flowers bloom in May and are wrapped in folk lore with fairies and even sexual fertility! Hawthorn has the ability to reduce cholesterol, hypertension and it contains compounds which increase blood flow and alleviate angina. It is a great heart tonic.

How to make Hawthorn fruit leather

This recipe is fairly straight forward to make.

  • Place large quantity of ripe hawthorn berries (haws) in a saucepan
  • Cover in water or apple juice but don’t add too much as you will need to dehydrate the puree
  • Simmer for about 15 minutes & allow to cool
    Mash the pulp briefly then rub through a sieve
    Pour the strained pulp onto baking paper on a baking tray less than 1cm thick
  • Place in the oven for approximately 2-4 hours. Leave to dry in the oven at its lowest setting
    Leave until the pulp is dry and leathery and can be peeled off the trays
  • Cut or tear into pieces &  store in an air tight jar
  • If dried and stored properly they will easily last for a year
image-1

Hawthorn fruit leather before drying

Warning

A few words of warning and rules:

  • Some plants and fungi are poisonous, so if you are not 100% certain that your identification is correct – DO NOT EAT IT.
  • Avoid foraging where agricultural sprays or vehicle pollution may have contaminated produce.
  • Always stay on Rights of Way unless you have the permission from the landowner to leave them.
  • Picking nuts, berries, leaves etc. is permitted on Rights of Way, but the uprooting of any wild plants is illegal without the landowner’s permission.

Why not join me on a course. Book via Eventbrite or email me for enquiries

Visit our online shop

Wildflower playing cardsLearn more about our wildflowers and natural world with a beautifully crafted pack of playing cards. This series of playing cards covers wildflowers, trees of Europe and alpine flowers. There are also wildflower Top trump cards to buy too. Top Trumps are the UK’s best selling card game! Visit our shop to buy

Beech leaf noyau

beech leaf noyau

Beech leaf noyau

An exotic tasting aperitif for Christmas time. Drink it neat or on ice!

Beech leaves as well as beech nuts are edible and make a great addition to salads. Young, tender leaves are tastier so collect when young if possible.

Beech leaves were once used to treat rheumatism! Now it’s time to make your exotic aperitif!

How to make your Beech leaf noyau

Collect 400g beech leaves, place in a kilner jar and add a bottle, 700ml, gin

Leave to infuse for 3 weeks then strain the gin from the leaves.

Boil 225g sugar in 300ml water and leave to cool.

beech leaf noyau

Bottled beech leaf noyau

Mix the gin, sugary water with 200ml brandy, bottle and enjoy!

 

 

 

 

Warning

A few words of warning and rules:

  • Some plants and fungi are poisonous, so if you are not 100% certain that your identification is correct – DO NOT EAT IT.
  • Avoid foraging where agricultural sprays or vehicle pollution may have contaminated produce.
  • Always stay on Rights of Way unless you have the permission from the landowner to leave them.
  • Picking nuts, berries, leaves etc. is permitted on Rights of Way, but the uprooting of any wild plants is illegal without the landowner’s permission.